White Sun of the Equinox

Today is a day of transition and transit. 21st of March, first day of Spring. I get up earlier than needed to photograph the rising sun from the upper deck of the Tut. The sky is hazy, almost overcast. A white sun rises over the east, quite unlike the fiery sunrises of the last few days.

Pack the bags, leave the luggage outside the room door for pick up, go upstairs for breakfast. We have to be on the bus by 7:30. Denny inadvertently sprinkles instant coffee over his cereal, thinking it's cocoa. It's his birthday today, maybe he's losing it... My leg joints are stiff from all the climbing and walking of the last few days. I'm actually looking forward to sitting in the bus for the five hours it will take to get to the pyramid of Meidum. We take the West Desert Road, much faster and unencumbered with rural traffic.

Some Egyptologists claim that the Meidum Pyramid was the first of three built by Snefru -- based on the scant evidence of an 18th dynasty graffiti mentioning that king's name -- and also that it was actually a smooth pyramid before the fill between the steps was quarried for stone and some of the outer layers sloughed off the sides. I remain skeptical about it having ever been a true pyramid... True or false, it is BIG, however, and it inspires awe.

I walk around the pyramid while Denny climbs to the first "step" level. Other members of our group either go inside to the burial chamber or choose to explore Mastaba # '17' right next to it. I stay put. I'm not climbing up or down anything! There is a cluster of stone sarcophagi laying in the sand near the pyramid. These are from much later burials. One large, late period black granite coffin is rather well preserved and quite nice with its decoration intact. Another coffin lid lies broken -- Sonia say that the last time she was here two years ago she saw it intact. What a shame! Some museum somewhere would have been quite happy to have it...

Back on the bus for the last leg to Giza & Cairo. As we enter the tentacles of the sprawling megalopolis, traffic becomes insanely congested. Angelenos should stop ranting about the 405 and the Sepulveda Pass; they have NO idea!

We finally spot the Great Pyramids, approaching from the back side of the plateau, which gives a very different perspective than the classic view we are used to from the National Geographic specials... The city has grown around the site, choking it from all sides now. Denny was here 15 years ago and says none of those buildings and apartment towers were there at the time.

Check in at the Giza Movenpick. A most welcome return to shameless luxury. There are a number of restaurants in the hotel, in addition to the famed Mena house within walking distance. I told Denny he could have his pick for his birthday dinner.

We'll be sleeping at the foot of the pyramids tonight. How cool is that!?!